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Nutrient Loss in the Food Supply: Eat Heirloom Varieties

It is harder to meet your daily requirements for nutrients today than it was sixty years ago. Perhaps you've heard. For about a century now the U.S. Government has collected data on the nutrient content of food. Since about 1940 researchers have collected data on specific micronutrients like iron and vitamin C rather than macronutrients like protein and calorie content. What researchers began to report on in the 1990s is that compared to the 1940s, food in the 1990s seems to have lower levels of micronutrients.

One study from 2004 performed a systematic analysis of changes in food nutrients. The authors examined 43 garden crops - fruits and vegetables you grow in your garden. They did not look at meat, milk, or tree crops such as nectarines or almonds.

Over that fifty year period, values for protein, calcium, phosphorus, iron, riboflavin, and ascorbic acid declined. Food in 1999 had about 85% the iron content of food in 1950 (Davis et al. 2004). (Data on zinc and magnesium was not available over that time period.)

What we do not know from this food nutrient data is the key question - why has there been a decline in nutrient values?


Soil Fertility?

One argument is that the mineral levels in our soil have been compromised. Many people in small-scale agriculture and in the organic food movement are concerned about nutrient loss in soil and its affect on our health. The argument is that conventional fertilizers used by farmers add only a few nutrients to the soil. Season after season as a spinach plant takes up iron, there is less iron left in the soil for the next spinach plant. Organic farmers avoid this problem by adding compost and other emulsions that are rich in many nutrients.

New Hybrid Crops?

The soil health argument is very difficult to test. And in fact, in the USDA data, there is not evidence that specifically supports the soil fertility argument. In the study of 43 garden crops, researchers point out that many nutrient values have declined, including potassium even though potassium is added to crops with conventional fertilizer. So with potassium values on the decline, the researchers suggest that a more likely suspect is the change in plant varieties themselves.

New hybrid plants are developed to maximize crop yield and to transport and store well. When plants are selectively bred for one characteristic, other beneficial characteristics of the original plant are likely to decline in the new hybrid. A high nutrient content is typically sacrificed when plants are bred to produce more food or to stay fresh in a cold storage. Think about it like this: if you bred people for beauty over twenty generations and each subsequent generation was more beautiful than the prior, how smart would those people be? It's hard to say. Probably not as smart as their ancestors since they were selectively bred for another purpose.

What you can do

As a society, when we buy produce from large grocers, we are, in fact, paying for lesser-quality food from a nutrient stand point. The nutrient content is what is sacrificed for transportation and storage.

What you can do in your own household is shop for produce at a farmer's market and ask for heirloom varieties. Heirloom crops are those created by nature. They may look a little different. They may not travel all that well. But generally I find that they have much more flavor.

If you garden, you can even grow your own. The internet has made it easy for us to collect heirloom seeds. Here's a directory of heirloom seed merchants.


But what if it is a soil fertility problem?

Choosing an heirloom variety will help even if there is a soil fertility problem in this county. First, small market farmers who grow heirloom crops in the first place also tend to use fertilizers such as compost and fish emulsion which have a variety of nutrients. Second, the plant varieties themselves are simply more likely to uptake nutrients because they haven't been bred for other purposes.

Visit a farmer's market today and ask about heirloom varieties of fruit and vegetables.

~~~~~

Source: Davis, D. R., M. D. Epp, H. D. Riordan. 2004. Changes in USDA Food Composition Data for 43 Garden Crops, 1950 to 1999. Journal of the American College of Nutrition 23: 669-682.

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Comments (4)

wonderful dialog on this subject, I completely agree, in fact I wrote something similar yesterday on my blog and a few years ago on a site that no longer exists. The subject of soil viability and heirloom seeds are two very close to my heart, thank s for highlighting them.

Katy B.

You haven't tasted a real tomato until you've tried heirloom varieties! I particularly the potato leaf types, they did well for me.

Hey ladies! Thanks for coming.

Lan, I agree absolutely on heirloom tomatoes. They are a whole other type of food. My mouth is watering for some now. I'm trying to think of my favorite, but we haven't had any bad ones. Green zebras are fun to throw in with some orange and red tomatoes. Summer is here!

Amanda

It's winter down here in Australia. We had the purplest purple potatoes last week. It took a bit to convince the family I wasn't playing a trick but they tried them anyway.

Thanks for joining the carnival of nourishment. Your blog is a site for sore eyes. Great to know you're in the world.

Love to review your book for Nourished Magazine?

Blessings

The Nourisher

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